By Eric Steffen
July 2025
When it comes to denim, raw and pre-distressed styles offer denim lovers two distinct options. As a denim enthusiast - and self-proclaimed denimhead - I love the unique story that raw denim tells over time, but also have an appreciation for the style and comfort of pre-distressed denim. Let’s dive into the differences so you can decide which option is best for you.
Three identical fabrics: the D13.5 Standard Issue In raw, faded, and medium wash.
What is Raw Denim?
All denim starts its journey as raw. Even those wildly pre-distressed jeans hanging on a store rack were once a deep, uniform sheet of blue.
Raw denim is essentially untreated, unwashed denim that retains its pure, dark indigo color and stiff texture - like the jeans and jacket that showed up at the NBA Eastern Conference Finals recently. Once woven, the fabric is spread, marked, cut, and sewn into jeans. From this point, the denim can either remain in its raw state or undergo a finishing process to create a pre-distressed look.
If you wear raw denim, every movement—whether you’re sitting, walking, or brushing against something—starts to shape the fabric, creating lighter hues of blue where the indigo fades away. Over time, these fades tell a personal story of your life and habits, making each pair unique.
The D11 Easy Rider, above, is the made from the same denim as the D11 Easy Rider Medium Wash below...
What is Pre-Distressed Denim?
Pre-distressed denim undergoes finishing processes to achieve a worn-in look before it reaches you. These processes fall into two categories:
-
Wet Processes:
Techniques like enzyme washes lighten the denim by altering its dark indigo to various shades of blue. Factors such as the type of wash, water temperature, and washing time determine the final color. -
Dry Processes:
Methods like sandblasting or laser treatments mimic the high-contrast fades of naturally worn raw denim. These techniques target specific areas to replicate years of wear in a matter of hours, or even seconds.
Why the Market Prefers Pre-Distressed?
The market has spoken, and the majority of jeans—about 90-95%—are sold pre-distressed. The reason?
- Part style: pre-distressed denim has a more relaxed look and feel than raw denim.
- Part conenience: pre-distressed denim offers a softer feel, requires no break-in period, and eliminates the worry of indigo transfer onto furniture or clothing.
Pros and Cons
Here’s a quick breakdown of the advantages and challenges of both types of denim:
| Raw Denim | Pre-Distressed Denim |
|---|---|
| ✅ Unique, high-contrast fades | ✅ Soft and comfortable immediately |
| ✅ Cool + formal, versatile look | ✅ No break-in / no indigo transfer |
| ✅ Lower environmental impact | ✅ Relaxed, versatile look |
| ❌ Stiff and uncomfortable at first | ❌ Requires additional processing |
| ❌ Longer break-in period | ❌ Lower fade potential |
| ❌ Indigo transfer (crocking) | ❌ Reduced durability |
What's best for you?
For purists like myself, raw denim holds a certain magic. It’s a blank canvas that tells your story over time, and its high-contrast fade potential is an embodiment of your life and your style.
But not everyone wants to break in stiff denim, pay a premium for selvedge jeans, or stain their white couch. Additionally, pre-distressed denim feels and looks great from day one. There's no one right answer, and both can hold a spot in a denim lovers wardrobe.
But due to longevity, beautiful fades and environmental considerations, I usually guide clients towards to increase their raw denim wardrobe over time. Pre-distressed denim should not be done away with, but the processes should continue to become more environmentally friendly over time. A wardrobe that includes both, but leans raw, is a reasonable, sustainable long term solution that balances style and responsible consumer behavior.
What do you think? Do you rock with both, or are you loyal to only raw or pre-distressed styles?
