Eric Steffen
October, 2024
When it comes to denim, it's a universe unto itself. So let's unpack some of the basics terms of this quintessentially American fabric. Namely, identifying the difference between raw denim, selvedge denim, and wide goods denim. These terms can easily be confused, but once you understand the differences, you’ll gain a greater appreciation for the craftsmanship behind your favorite jeans.
Raw
Raw denim, sometimes referred to as "dry" denim, is un-distressed denim fabric. The fabric may or may not be pre-shrunk, but it has not been washed or pre-distressed after leaving the loom. The fabric retains its natural, deep indigo color and stiff feel, and fades beautifully over time with wear.
One of the key aspects of raw denim is its durability. Since it hasn't gone through any pre-washing or distressing processes, it maintains its strength and structure, allowing for a longer lifespan, more customized fit and retains its high contrast fade potential.
Selvedge
Selvedge denim refers to the way the denim is woven, rather than how it is treated. The term "selvedge" (derived from "self-edge") refers to the tightly woven edge of the fabric that prevents it from unraveling. This edge is created on shuttle looms, which produce a narrow strip of denim, often with a distinctive colored line on the edges, typically red or blue.
Selvedge denim is prized for its craftsmanship and durability. Since it's woven on traditional shuttle looms, the process is slower and produces a tighter, more durable weave compared to modern mass-production methods. You'll often find selvedge denim with a premium price tag due to this time-intensive production process.
Wide Goods
Wide goods denim, sometimes referred to as "normal" denim, is mass-produced on modern projectile looms. These looms are faster and more efficient, producing wider rolls of fabric (sometimes up to 60 inches or more), which allows for cheaper, larger-scale production. Wide goods denim is the standard for most jeans you’ll find in stores today. It can be left raw, but more often it is washed and distressed after production.
Unlike selvedge denim, wide goods doesn’t have the tightly woven, clean edges, and the fabric is typically pre-washed or treated in some way to achieve different finishes, colors, and textures. This type of denim is versatile and affordable but lacks the artisanal qualities of raw and selvedge denim.
Summary
Raw denim is a classification for denim that is unwashed and undistressed. The opposite of raw denim is pre-distressed denim.
Selvedge denim and wide goods denim refer to the type of looms that the denim was made on. Both begin raw, though selvedge denim typically stays raw due to its quality and character, and wide goods often goes on to become pre-distressed due to its affordability.
If you’re after a classic pair of jeans, raw denim is an obvious choice. If you prefer a denim that is already broken in, pre-distressed is the way to go. Either way, you'll need to determine if the premium craftsmanship of selvedge denim, or the affordability and accessibility of wide goods, is right for you.
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